wear this there: skincare edition
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the best skincare treatments for hyperpigmentation and melasma
part one in the summer skincare recovery series
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this summer, i spent a lot of time in the sun (probably too much time, honestly) and after my summer of sun on the french riviera and adriatic coast, i noticed that my skin was in definite need of some tlc. i often neglected even my most basic skincare routines while traveling and it seriously started to show. so, i decided to do a series on the best skincare products to reboot your skin after a summer of sun. i will be focusing on treatments for hyperpigmentation, dryness, dullness, fine lines and wrinkles. this post focuses on the best skincare treatments for hyperpigmentation and melasma.
first off, what is hyperpigmentation?
it’s basically when spots of your skin become darker than the surrounding areas of skin. hyperpigmentation is very common and occurs in all skin types. it is usually caused by an overproduction of melanin, which happens from sun exposure, inflammation, skin injuries, and acne.
melasma is a type of hyperpigmentation that is specifically caused by hormonal changes and uv exposure. it’s more common in women with medium to darker skin tones and is usually triggered from hormonal birth control and pregnancy. it is more difficult to treat than general hyperpigmentation, but there are ways and i’m here to tell you about them.
melasma is one of my biggest skincare concerns, so i’ve perfected this treatment over eight years, multiple dermatologist visits, and tons of research, trial and error. with consistent treatment, my hyperpigmentation and melasma had faded almost completely. but i will say it usually always resurfaces a bit in the summer and this summer, i really did not take care of my skin like i should have so it came back with a vengeance. i quickly got back to my routine to treat the problem and am already seeing improvements!
(disclaimer: i do recommend seeing a dermatologist if you think you have melasma, but these are the products that have been recommended to me by professionals and have worked the best. always do spot test treatments when trying any new products. pregnant and nursing women should not use hydroquinone, retinol, or salicylic acids.)
here is my dermatologist approved, comprehensive treatment plan for melasma and hyperpigmentation
step 1: prevent hyperpigmentation and melasma
the most important aspect of treating hyperpigmentation and melasma is trying to prevent it in the first place.
how?
- do not pick at acne or inflamed skin. the scar tissue will turn into hyperpigmentation.
- if you suspect that hormonal birth control is the cause of your hyperpigmentation, talk to your doctor about options for switching to another form of non-hormonal contraceptive.
- avoid sun exposure and ALWAYS use a mineral spf. both uv rays and visible light rays cause hyperpigmentation. that means you can get skin damage even indoors from phone and computer screens, certain types of lighting, and radiant heat! so literally always wear mineral spf.
- more specifically, you need to use an spf with zinc, titanium, and/or iron oxide. i cannot stress this enough! this is the only type of sunscreen that will help prevent hyperpigmentation and melasma because it blocks all types of damaging rays.
here are my top recommendations for mineral based sunscreens with zinc, titanium, and/or iron oxide (and don’t worry, mineral sunscreens don’t mean white, streaky marks on your face anymore! they’ve improved the compositions, so many go on more sheer).
best mineral sunscreens:
apply mineral sunscreen everyday as the last step in your morning routine. reapply throughout the day.
step 2: exfoliate your skin
exfoliating your skin helps with cell turnover. it will both aid in replacing damaged, hyperpigmented cells with new, even-toned skin cells and allow your products to penetrate the skin deeper, yielding better results from serums and creams.
there are multiple options for exfoliating, from chemical to physical exfoliants, with over the counter options, to in office doctor procedures.
i recommend starting with otc (over the counter) chemical exfoliants. they are less powerful than doctor’s treatments but can still yield great results. if they don’t seem to be working, then seek out medical grade options.
look for products with glycolic, lactic, citric, and salicylic acids (AHAs and BHAs).
here are some of the best options for otc chemical peels:
you should only use a chemical exfoliant 2-3 times a week. follow the directions according to the product you purchase, but most are used in the evening on clean dry skin before any other products. always be sure to use a mineral spf and avoid sun exposure after use. do not use retinol the same day you use a chemical peel.
step 3: treating your skin for hyperpigmentation/melasma
now that you’re protecting your skin with a strong mineral spf, and have prepped your skin by exfoliating, you can start treating the hyperpigmentation/melasma.
there are multiple options for treating hyperpigmentation and melasma. usually the most effective are lightening agents.
best lightening agents for melasma:
hydroquionone
the number one product that is always recommended for treating melasma and hyperpigmentation is hydroquinone. hydroquinone is a topical skin bleaching agent. your dermatologist can prescribe stronger concentrated creams and serums (4% and higher) or you can find up to 2% hydroquinone serums and creams over the counter.
i used a prescription strength hydroquinone cream when i first started treatment, but it was actually too strong and caused severe irritation. my doctor then ended up recommending an over the counter hydroquinone serum with 2% hydroquinone. i have been using this murad serum ever since and it works well when i am diligent about using it every night. i recommend starting with a 2% concentration and if it does not work, talk to your dermatologist about getting a higher concentrate product.
only use hydroquinone as a spot treatment on your hyperpigmented areas, otherwise you run the risk of bleaching your regular skin. you should see improvement after 8 weeks of use, but it can take longer. you can use the product consistently, every day for up to 4 months and then begin to taper off, as you shouldn’t use hydroquinone for more than 5 months at time. if you want to resume use, wait 1-2 months before starting again.
here are the best options for hydroquinone serums and creams (otc):
apply hydroquinone to clean, dry skin after your toner and chemical peel or retinol product (allow your retinol product to fully sink in before applying hydroquinone). then wait a few minutes for the hydroquinone to absorb and dry completely before applying any other products (oils, moisturizers). start out only using it once a day at night. once your skin has adapted to it you can increase use to morning and night. in the morning use it after toner but before any other products.
kojic acid, azelaic acid, and niacinamide (vitamin b-3)
these three skin brighteners are also highly rated for the treatment of melasma and hyperpigmentation. these options are great alternatives or additions to hydroquinone. i usually work them in when i’m taking a break from my hydroquinone regimen.
here are the best serums with kojic acid, nicinamide (vitamin b-3), and azelaic acid:
use these as directed. usually apply in the evening on a clean dry face, after toner and retinol but before other products.
vitamin c
vitamin c is a skincare powerhouse. it’s touted as one of the best skincare ingredients out there right now with anti-aging, hydrating, brightening, and collagen boosting properties. most importantly, for this article, it evens out skin tone and helps reduce hyperpigmentation.
adding a vitamin c serum to your routine will definitely assist in your battle against hyperpigmentation and melasma. it helps protect against sun damage and pollution (which are major contributors to melasma and hyperpigmentation) and it actively helps reduce hyperpigmentation by impeding melanin production and treating inflammatory skin conditions.
unfortunately for me, i have a bit of an allergy to vitamin c, so it took me a few tries to find a formula that did not make me break out in red splotches. sunday riley’s c.e.o. rapid flash brightening serum did not cause any reaction for me. you can also mix your vitamin c serum with your moisturizer to decrease chance of irritation.
here are the best vitamin c serums out there right now:
use your vitamin c as directed on the packaging. generally speaking vitamin c should be applied in the morning after cleansing and toning your skin (and after hydroquinone if you’re using that twice a day). follow it with a moisturizer and mineral sunscreen.
retinol
retinol is another one of those powerhouse skincare products that dermatologists swear by, especially for fine lines, wrinkles, and evening skin tone. if you aren’t using a retinol product in your skincare routine, you should definitely add one asap.
“retinoids work at a much more profound level (than just exfoliating) by affecting gene expression and causing enhanced collagen production, skin smoothing, and an evening of pigmentation,” says Dana Sachs, an associate professor of dermatology at the University of Michigan Medical School.
they can be irritating, so if you’re just starting out, use it every few days and build up. if you’re still having issues, apply it on top of your moisturizer to adapt to it. also note, that products vary on concentrations, so you can start with a lower concentration and gradually move up to more potent options.
retinol will not be effective alone in treating melasma/hyperpigmentation but it is a powerful assistant in the process and is one of the most effective anti-aging options out there, so it’s definitely worth adding it to your routine.
here are the best over the counter retinol serums and creams according to dermatologists:
use as directed. generally: apply to clean, dry skin after toner. do not use on nights that you use exfoliants or chemical peels, such as AHAs and BHAs. let dry completely then apply hydroquinone and the rest of your products.
i know this list and routine is quite lengthy, but it will also yield the best results. if you only have the time and/or budget for 1-2 products i recommend starting with hydroquinone and a chemical exfoliant. (and 1000% always wear mineral sunscreen).
if your hyperpigmentation and/or melasma persist after trying this for 3 months, go see a dermatologist. laser treatments, medical grade chemical peels, microdermabrasion and other medical procedures are often effective in treating these concerns when over the counter methods do not work.
have you tried any of these products or have any suggestions for what has worked best for you? let me know below and always feel free to reach out to me with any questions; either leave a comment below or dm me on instagram @wear_this_there.
stay tuned for the next three parts of the summer skincare recovery series: dryness, fine lines and wrinkles, and dullness!
