ahhh, the french riviera. the glitz and glamour, the rosé and champagne, the yachts and fancy cars, the sparkling, cerulean blue seas and pastel colored towns, the jetsetters and a-list parties. is that what you picture when you think of the famed southern coast of france?
well, the french riviera is actually a bit of a paradox. some parts, even in (or maybe i should say, especially in) monaco, nice, and antibes, are rather run down and dated. but not in the charming way you imagine, more in the eyesore, wtf are these hideous buildings, kind of way.
of course there is also the chic and dazzling side to these places, with iconic hotels and breathtaking views of the mediterranean alongside colorful little villages made up of narrow, winding alleyways with laundry hanging out to dry from windows framed by brightly painted shutters.
in menton, we passed an older gentleman sitting on his stoop with three baguettes and a newspaper and a woman carrying fresh fruit from the market back to her home with a painted yellow door in a shaded alleyway. in villefranche-sur-mer we saw a man sitting by the sea with his rod cast into the water while he shucked fresh oysters to snack on.
in eze we had breakfast next to a russian woman decked out in a flowing, camilla silk robe, matching headscarf, and celine sunglasses. we sipped champagne cocktails at the hotel du-cap-eden roc a few tables down from a couple toting a leica s typ 007 camera, with designer everything. at nikki beach in st. tropez, we were invited to cannes film festival parties by a lively club promoter in all black. the glamorous and provencal collide in the south of france and despite being decidedly unimpressed with certain areas in the cote d’azur (cough cough, monaco), other parts were simply captivating.
we stayed a few nights at the chateau de la chevre d’or in a little town called eze close to nice and it was an actual dream. landscaped garden terraces adorned with elaborate animal sculptures cascade down the dramatic cliffs. an infinity pool, perched high on the mountainside, overlooks the endless sparkling blue of the mediterranean below. the hotel itself, is built right into the stone, maze-like medieval village. we enjoyed lavish breakfasts al fresco with sweeping views of the ocean and the dramatic coastline of the cote d’azur all with the most impeccable customer service.
the hotel du cap-eden-roc was slightly less charming but made up for that with old world glamour and modern luxury. in f. scott fitzgerald’s words, it’s a “summer resort of notable and fashionable people.” the famed photographer, slim aarons spent summers in the 60’s and 70’s shooting “attractive people doing attractive things in attractive places” here. the hotel has actual trained falcons flying back in forth in front of the restaurant and pool decks to keep away any pesky pigeons. the dramatic infinity pool hovers above the glittering azur sea below, as the waves crash against the white sandstone cliffs that the resort is perched on. it’s a place where you feel instantly more fabulous and wish you never had to leave.
we spent time in the colorful villages of menton and villfranche-sur-mer. both were endlessly charming and gave us glimpses into local life along the french riviera. we wandered the quaint cobbled streets (taking plenty of photos along the way), soaked up some sun on the golden sand beach, plage de marnières on one of the warmer days of our trip and enjoyed moules frites and rose seaside by the harbor.
our trip ended in st. tropez, where we stayed in a countryside bed & breakfast about ten minutes from town, set on a small vineyard with cypress trees lining the property and ivy growing along the charming, stone cottages.
the heart of st. tropez has a much different vibe than our provencal b&b. the streets are lined with designer boutiques while luxury yachts and sailboats fill the harbor. we did some shopping, as one must do in st. tropez, and spent a day at nikki beach, one of st. tropez’s famed beach clubs, drinking rose and basking in the sun that had eluded us the first half of our trip.
my friend and i visited the cote d’azur in early may expecting cooler evenings but warm days spent by the sea, tanning on the beaches and afternoons lounging about in sundresses, sipping rosé. well, it turns out that early may in the south of france is not as warm as one might think (or at least one, such as myself, might think).
we woke up in menton on our first day to gray skies and drizzles. in a naive hopefulness, i still put on the green, polka dot, sleeveless, midi dress i planned on wearing that day and threw on a cozy cashmere long cardigan over it. we stopped into a cafe a few blocks down from our hotel and tried to warm up with cappuccinos, tea, and of course, pastries & croissants.
as we sat there shivering while sipping on our cafe, observing the locals around us in jeans and parkas, i wondered, how did i get this so wrong? the weather seemed pretty nice when i had looked it up. and i had seen photos of major bloggers posing in slinky dresses in april on the coast in monaco, so how were we so off?! well, i blame a few things: 1) not taking account for the cold breeze off the ocean during this time of year. 2) weather was unseasonably cold during our trip. 3) influencers can be very misleading #instagramisnotreallife.
we went back to the hotel and layered up, but i quickly realized, i didn’t really pack anything that was quite appropriate for the weather. my suitcase overflowed with silky slip dresses, linen crop tops, and colorful sundresses. but only one pair of pants (and they were linen. dang all), two sweaters, and thankfully, my burberry quilted coat.
i headed back out from the hotel for a morning of exploring, still in my summer polka dot dress but layered with my two sweaters and my jacket. i looked like a frumpy grandma and was decidedly not tres chic.
as our week in the riviera went on, the days warmed up and my wardrobe became more appropriate, but overall, i recommend packing a bit differently if you’re heading to the cote d’azur in april or early may. don’t let my, or any other fashion blogger’s photos in which they are posing, basking in the sun in a slinky sheer dress in monaco in the middle of april, fool you (as they did me). i recommend packing a couple of pairs of nice skinny jeans, sweaters, long sleeve blouses, and a dressy pair of mules or loafers, as well as a mid-weight coat and scarf. you should also bring some more summery dresses and outfits like i list below, because there were definitely warmer days too. basically, bring a broad spectrum of weather options.
ok, so now that i’ve covered that, this blog will actually be on what to wear in the french riviera in the summer (june through early september), as i found out what i packed was more appropriate for then.
when packing for the french riviera, you should bring a mix of more glamorous outfits and casual sundresses. if you go to monaco, dress to impress! you cannot be overdressed in monaco (trust me, we made the terrible mistake of not dressing up because we had some troubles on our drive and were stressed about the weather, blah blah blah and just completely forgot about looking chic. we felt like peasants at a royal ball.) st. tropez is also quite glamorous, as well as any of the nicer hotels along the cote d’azur, like the hotel du cap-eden-roc or the château de la chevre d’or. slip dresses, silky flowy pants, and fancier dresses are all perfect for days in these locations. add even more glamour with a fabulous pair of sunglasses and a chic headscarf and you’re set.
for the smaller, colorful villages that dot the coast, playful sundresses or linen pants and a crop top are perfect for the more laid back, provencal vibe.
so i’ll stop my rambling and get to the important part, here is my full packing list for the french riviera in the summer!
dresses: most of my wardrobe for the south of france were dresses. this is often the case for when i pack for summer trips, as they are just so easy to throw on but still look like you’re really put together. they don’t take up much space in your suitcase either.
white linen dress
bright polka dots
green polka dot dress
feminine/flirty dress
red dress
green dress
slip dress
statement dress:
you need something fabulous for the famed côte d’azure
to switch it up a little i also brought a pair of striped linen pants and white linen crop. linen is the perfect summer fabric and is definitely european chic, plus it’s very sustainable!
for a super chic beach day, pack a pair of silky, flowy pants and a flattering crop top. throw on a pair of cat eye sunglasses and headscarf and you’re basically brigitte bardot.
obviosuly, you can’t forget swimsuits!
i always love a good white swimsuit. a cute eyelet one is perfect for the charming beachside towns. pair it with a ponyscarf and you’ll look tres french!
for the glamorous hotels, opt for something that stands out, like a bright fuscia, shimmery gold, or fun print bikini and at the famed st. tropez beach clubs, go for something fun and flirty to wear while you sip rose poolside.
and for shoes:
as always, bring a pair of white sneakers, these are perfect to pair with a sundress while exploring all of the charming little towns.
one or two pairs of sandals: think just simple, neutral, and chic.
a pair of wedge espadrilles, for the days you want to be slightly more glamorous and maybe a pair of heels if you have fancy evening plans in monaco or cannes.
bring a cashmere sweater or shawl for the evenings and maybe even a lightweight leather jacket if it’s early summer.
accessories:
you simply cannot go to a coastal destination in the summer without a beach hat. here are some of my faves right now:
headscarf/ponyscarf:
headband:
sunnies: go for a cateye or chic oversized pair
earrings: it’s all about the glamour
and that’s a wrap for the wear this there: french riviera style guide! feel free to leave a comment below with any questions or dm me on insta @wear_this_there.
and stay tuned for the full travel guide with itinerary, hotel, and restaurant recommendations! bisou, bisou xx